In the mazes of the Medina of Tunis: guide to the souks

Crossing the Porte de France (Bab el Bhar) means leaving the modern city to plunge into the historic heart of Tunis. The Medina, founded in the 7th century, revolves around the Great Zitouna Mosque. Each alley, each souk has its specialty. Here's how to get there.

The organization of the souks

The souks are not arranged randomly. Historically, the so-called “noble” and clean trades (booksellers, perfumers, fabric merchants) were located closest to the Great Mosque. The further away you go, the more noisy or odorous you find the professions (blacksmiths, dyers).

The Souk El Attarine (The Perfumers)

Attached to the mosque, it is the most refined souk. There are essences of jasmine, geranium, amber, as well as rose and orange blossom water, essential to Tunisian pastries.

The Chechias Souk

It is perhaps the most picturesque. The artisans there still make the chéchia, this traditional head covering in red wool. The manufacturing process, which involves knitting, fulling, dyeing and carding, has remained unchanged for centuries.

Tips for the visit

• Go there in the morning to see the artisans at work, or late in the afternoon to avoid the midday crowds.
• Don't be afraid of getting lost: it's the best way to discover hidden patios and ancient palaces (Dar). Sooner or later, all the streets go down towards Bab el Bhar or go up towards the Kasbah.
• If a merchant invites you to drink tea in his shop, accept. It’s a mark of hospitality that doesn’t always require a purchase.
• Bargaining is essential for crafts. Stay courteous and treat it like a game.