What to do in Sidi Bou Said: the complete guide

Clinging to a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Tunis, Sidi Bou Said is undoubtedly the most photographed village in Tunisia. Its white houses with cobalt blue doors and windows, its bougainvilleas and its cobbled streets have made it a place of pilgrimage for artists for more than a century. Here's how to experience the village like a local, not a rushed tourist.

Stroll through the cobbled streets

The heart of Sidi Bou Said can be explored on foot, and that's so much the better. From the central square, let yourself be carried away by the main street which climbs gently, then leave it to explore the side streets. It is there, away from the souvenir shops, that the village reveals its true face: flowered patios, wrought iron knockers and moucharabiehs that filter the light. In the morning before 10 a.m., the light is soft and the streets are still deserted.

The Café des Délices and the view of the Gulf

Impossible to talk about Sidi Bou Said without mentioning its terrace cafes. The famous Café des Délices, popularized by Patrick Bruel's song, offers a spectacular view of the marina and Cap Bon. For a more authentic experience, take a seat at Café Sidi Chabaane, below: its tiered terraces on the cliffside are the perfect place for a pine nut tea at sunset.

Visit the Ennejma Ezzahra Palace

A few minutes from the center, the Ennejma Ezzahra palace was the home of Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger, painter and musicologist who contributed to safeguarding traditional Arab music. The palace, its terraced gardens and its collection of instruments are well worth the visit. It is also one of the few quiet and shady places in the village during the day.

Go down to the marina

Below the village, the marina is worth the detour. You go down there via a shaded path in about fifteen minutes. The port lines fish restaurants and fishing boats: it is the ideal place for a lunch with your feet almost in the water, before leisurely heading back towards the village.

Our advice to avoid the crowds

• Visit early in the morning (before 10 a.m.) or at the end of the day: the light is more beautiful and the tourist buses have left.
• Avoid spring weekends, which are very frequented by the Tunisians themselves.
• Stay on site: sleeping in Sidi Bou Said allows you to enjoy the village once the day visitors have left.
• Wear good shoes: the streets are paved and often sloping.

Sidi Bou Said should be savored slowly. By staying there for a few nights, you will discover a village which, after 6 p.m., regains its calm and its end-of-the-Mediterranean charm.